Wednesday, July 25, 2007

Olives, the standby of the relish tray, have distinctive flavor profiles that enhance your cooking and dining pleasure.

Although olives, served alone, make an effortless appetizer course, this fruit is also a flavorful ingredient that enhances many summer dishes. Depending on the variety you choose, olives can add a rich buttery flavor, complex herbal accent or piquant bite to recipes.

For example, start with oil-cured black olives seasoned with thyme. Mince a handful and blend into softened butter.



Spread on crusty bread, and you’ve got an instant feast. Or chop up some green Spanish olives and stir into a bowl of chopped tomatoes, garlic and shallots. Spread on bread and run under the broiler for a minute for a savory snack.

Because olives are popular now as a source of healthful fat, you should have no trouble finding some interesting and tasty varieties.

Supermarkets and gourmet food stores alike often stock Greek kalamata, Nicoise and Sicilian olives, along with the generically labeled black or green olives. If possible, opt for olives from a refrigerated deli case or olive bar. The texture of refrigerated olives is usually crisper and better.

However, don’t think you have to buy the unpitted version for authenticity sake. Removing the pit allows the heady olive brine to saturate the fruit, according to David Rosengarten, a New York gourmet food writer.

In the recipe that follows, salmon fillets are roasted and topped with a mellow-tasting combination of olives, shallot, pine nuts and herbs.

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You can double the olive recipe and use the leftovers to top an omelet or a slice of sourdough bread. Serve the salmon with lemon-scented rice on the side.

Roast salmon with olive spread

Olive spread (recipe follows)

2 6-ounce salmon fillets

Olive oil

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Pepper to taste

Prepare olive spread and set aside while cooking salmon. Lightly brush salmon fillets with oil. Place skin-side down on lightly oiled baking sheet. Season with pepper. Roast in preheated 425-degree oven for 7 to 8 minutes.

Remove from oven. Let sit for 5 minutes to finish cooking. Gently ease salmon from baking sheet, leaving skin behind. Arrange on 2 plates. Spoon olive spread over salmon. Makes 2 servings.

OLIVE SPREAD:

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1 tablespoon olive oil

1 large shallot, thinly sliced

½ cup pitted Mediterranean olives, such as Nicoise, kalamata or Sicilian, halved if large

1 tablespoon pine nuts

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1/4 teaspoon crushed dried oregano

Heat oil in small skillet. Add shallot and cook over medium-high heat for 1 minute or until shallot is tender. Stir in olives, pine nuts and oregano. Reduce heat to low and simmer for 2 to 3 minutes to blend flavors.

Lemon rice

1 cup water

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1/4 teaspoon salt

½ cup long-grain rice

1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

1½ teaspoons butter

Bring water and salt to a boil in a small pot over high heat. Stir in rice. Reduce heat to low.

Cover and simmer for 15 minutes or until rice is tender and water is absorbed. Stir in lemon zest and butter. Cover pot and set aside off heat for 5 minutes. Makes 2 servings.

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