Wild World Series

LAS VEGAS — It is the last bastion of the Wild West. However, the biggest poker game in the world isn’t taking place in some smoke-filled back room with guns on the table and whiskey flowing.

No, this high stakes game, which can make or break a man — or woman — takes place in a well-lit ballroom. There is no smoking and the drink of choice is bottled water. The only guns visible are the ones on display in the casino. They were once owned by the man who started this gathering as a publicity stunt 33 years ago.

The World Series of Poker — a legendary card contest that draws cowboys and computer nerds, gangsters and gardeners — is open to anyone who willing to pony up $10,000, sit at a table at Binion’s Horseshoe Hotel and Casino and gamble until, after five days, there is only one man — or woman — remaining with all the chips.

“This is special for any poker player,” said Chris Ferguson, the 2000 World Series winner, but who did not finish in the money this week. “There are not many events where anyone can enter and compete for the World Championship. Not just anyone can enter in the Masters or the NBA Finals. Here anyone can, but they have to put their money where their mouth is. They have to put up $10,000.”

It was special for Ferguson, one of the most successful poker players in the world. The tall, thin long-haired poker star, known as “Jesus” in poker circles, took home $1.5million when he was the last man standing three years ago.

The game is “No Limit Texas Hold ‘Em.” Players get two cards face down to use with the dealers’ five common cards, which are turned over in three stages of betting.

All around Benny’s Bullpen — the poker area at the casino — men and women sit quietly at tables. Meanwhile, the sound of chips being dropped, played with and shuffled, fills the air.

The players — this year a record 839 entered from 44 states and 27 countries — put up small fortunes to buy into the game while others are fortunate enough to win a smaller tournament and earn a seat in the five-day event. They study their cards and their opponents, many of whom wear sunglasses so that their eyes will not betray their hands. They aren’t dressed like Las Vegas high rollers, in fact many are dressed like your average college student — jeans and T-shirts or shorts. Some stick with the Wild West motif and wear cowboy hats while others don baseball caps.

“Everyone tries to dress poor,” said Howard Schwartz, owner of the Gambler’s Book Shop.

But the clothes cannot hide the man once he sits down at the table. “You can tell the type of personality a person has by the way they play poker,” Schwartz said. “To control your own fate is an attraction. You’re not against the house. You are against other players, and that is a challenge that people like. It is the individualism that you find in poker.”

And the money. The last person standing after today’s final game will pocket $2.5million and have a place in poker history.

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“This is the one event that can make you or break you for life,” said Phil Hellmuth, the 1989 World Series winner. He said once, when he was a child, a psychic told him he would be famous and great “at something” although poker was never mentioned. “You win that and you’re a world champion the rest of your life, not to mention the money and the prestige. This is what we live for in poker.”

Hellmuth finished 27th this week and took home $45,000.

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