Vive le 'Big Mac'

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Oo-la-la.

A pair of French nutritionists have given a spirited oui to McDonald's traditional "Big Mac" and classic cheeseburger, declaring the American fare more healthy to eat than scandalously rich quiche and other traditional French dishes.

In a new guide to the eateries, food brands and markets of France, dietary researchers Jean-Michel Cohen and Patrick Serog observed, "Strangely enough, the products which are the most demonised are not necessarily the worst."

They have awarded the two burgers -- buns and all -- a coup de coeur, or seal of approval.

The "Savoir Manger" guide -- which more or less translates as "to know how to eat" -- is currently No. 2 on the French nonfiction best-seller list, and first on bookseller Amazon's sales list for France.

"It is easy to vilify bread, meat and cheese. This objective look at our menu is very refreshing," said McDonald's spokesman Walt Riker yesterday. "Any reviewer who takes the time to look at the quality of our menu and the facts we provide can make a fair judgment about what McDonald's is all about."

Messrs. Cohen and Serog gauged the attributes of 5,000 goodies around France, including jams, ice creams, sandwiches, soups, candies, breads -- even criticizing such native favorites as cassoulet, a hearty bean-and-sausage casserole, and the more exotic duck a l'orange.

The Big Mac and cheeseburger won accolades for their protein content -- 25 grams and 15 grams, respectively -- compared with their saturated fats -- 11 and 6 grams.

McDonald's has not always had such tasteful victories, however. The restaurant has been at the very vanguard of rancorous squabbles between the United States and France over cultural, trade and economic matters in recent years.

Despite the fact that the Illinois-based company operates more than 1,000 restaurants in France and employs 40,000 French people, some of the locals have declared McDonald's a cultural enemy -- a purveyor of sleazy American malbouffe, or junk food.