Mushrooms and cheese fill torta

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For one of my favorite desserts, I simply spread berries in a baking dish, add a cakelike batter and streusel topping, and bake. This is called a buckle, and it is often prepared with blueberries.

The French have a version they call "clafoutis," which they often make with cherries. So I was surprised when I discovered savory vegetable clafoutis featured in a new French cookbook.

Soon after, in an Australian cooking magazine, I spotted a similar baked-vegetable torta made with roasted vegetables. Ideas began flowing. I was ready to branch out into savory inventions.

My first attempt turned out to be a winner. I sauteed diced portobello mushrooms and chopped shallots together until tender, then seasoned them with crushed rosemary, coarse salt and pepper.

The mixture was spread in a buttered pie plate and topped with a batter of flour, grated Parmesan cheese, milk, eggs and baking powder. As the torta baked, the batter expanded and encased the portobellos. When done, the golden mushroom-speckled torta was only about 3/4 inch high, perfect for cutting into slim wedges.

This dish, I realized, could be presented in more than one way when entertaining. I served my baked vegetable creation as a side dish with grilled steaks one night, and my husband was reaching for a third slice when I finally took the plate away.

Next I want to try the torta as a brunch entree accompanied by sauteed bacon or ham and some warm, crusty peasant bread.

Portobello mushroom torta

1 tablespoons unsalted butter, plus extra for buttering the pan

6 ounces portobello mushrooms (see note)