Wine of the week

Domaine de Bernier, Chardonnay, Vin de Pays du Jardin de France, 2003, $10

Chardonnay isn’t supposed to come from the Loire Valley, a region better known for chenin and sauvignon blanc. It’s especially not supposed to come from the western edge of the Loire, where the influence of the cold Atlantic makes it difficult to get grapes ripe. But that’s exactly where the grapes for this wine grow, and the fruit had no trouble ripening in the record heat of 2003. The result is a delicious bargain.

Aged and fermented primarily in tank, with a small percentage in oak barrels, this wine tastes crisp and lively, with citrus fruit and apple flavors, a kiss of vanilla and a mineral-tinged finish. Medium-bodied, it resembles first-class Chablis, at a fraction of the price.

Lighter than most New World chardonnays and, above all, refreshing to sip, this wine is an ideal partner for all but the heartiest seafood dishes. Because it tastes so lively, it also will work well as an aperitif. Restaurateurs looking for wines to pour by the glass would do well to try it. (Imported by Vineyard Brands.)