Hiking the Porkies

A massive, remote old-growth forest is hidden in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. This jewel, little known even to many Michiganians, is the Porkies — the Porcupine Mountain Wilderness State Park.

The region’s forests, mountains, rushing rivers and cascading waterfalls cover a vast stretch of shoreline on the southwestern tip of Lake Superior. This ancient expanse of northern woods is packed with many activities as well as healing solitude.

The Porcupine Mountains are the highest point between the Mississippi River and the Appalachian range, and the state park is Michigan’s largest. In summer and autumn, this 60,000-acre wilderness area offers camping, hiking, scenic touring, hunting, fishing, animal- and bird-watching and kayaking as well as the calm of rustic cabin life.

The personality of the park changes in the winter, but activities still abound. Visitors may go downhill skiing at an excellent facility and chalet or explore the many miles of cross-country ski trails — and there also are snowshoeing, snowmobiling, ice fishing, tubing and hiding away in one of the area’s cozy cabins.

The park’s old-growth forest is dotted with 16 cabins for rent, among the most popular programs in the park. Three of the cabins are open year-round. Some are a mile from the nearest road, but the hiking trails to the cabins are easy, and their remoteness adds to the allure of quiet, simple cabin life. These cabins are well-built, but they have no running water or electricity; they offer families, campers and seekers of peace and quiet an ideal way to escape the rush of city life — a quiet cabin in the Porkies may have curative powers.

Renters can experience cooking on an open fire or on an old-fashioned wood-burning stove. The cabins have all the utensils and tools needed, from frying pans and spatulas to axes and brooms. Most are situated close to a river or lake, and some cabins include a rowboat for exploring.

There is no ambient light anywhere near the state park, and stargazing on a clear night reveals millions of lights on God’s blackboard. On cloudless nights, the Milky Way is clearly visible, as are the northern lights. Call the state park headquarters for more information on the best cabins for stargazing. All cabin rentals within the park are made through the park headquarters.

HIKING AND CAMPING

More than 90 miles of hiking trails in the area give visitors a wide range of trails to choose, from short and easy to very challenging. Whether you plan a short waterside hike near your tent or cabin (or hotel room) or wish to confront the 16-mile Lake Superior Trail, there is a hiking experience for everyone in the Porkies. The North Mirror Lake Trail, a mere 11/2 miles, shows two lake views and provides easy access to the treasures within sight of the bridge near Mirror Lake.

For the more adventurous, the Lake Superior Trail is a magnificent trek, one of my most memorable hikes. Much of the trail runs along the rocky coast of moody and diverse Lake Superior. The trail winds through old-growth forest and waist-high fern meadows, and hikers frequently find themselves close to Superior’s coast.

Along the way, if the time of the year is right, hundreds of bizarrely colored mushrooms of many shapes and sizes are visible. The true beauty of the deep blue, orange, purple and speckled red mushrooms cannot be truly appreciated until they are seen hiding on the forest floor near logs and under ferns.

When you are ready to drop the backpack for the day, you’ll find there are many camping spots along the way, and some places have fire rings. Once the tent is up, take time to sit on the large rocks on the nearby Superior coast. On clear evenings, the red, yellow, pink and orange sunsets are stunning.

The Escarpment Trail can be hiked for distances of two, four and eight miles. The escarpment overlooks the coast, with blue vistas west toward Minnesota. It also provides a wonderful perspective of much of the Porkies.

Numerous waterfalls decorate the Porkies’ trails. From the Presque Isle campgrounds, it is a short hike to dramatic falls and cascades. Check with the park headquarters to get a list of active waterfalls.

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