Quick fixin' in the kitchen

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In the kitchen, you need to be able to fix a problem fast. If the gravy is pallid, a dash of fruity red wine or a tablespoon of tomato paste can work wonders. If vinaigrette tastes acidic, it probably needs a pinch of salt.

Tasteless fruit can be brightened by a sprinkling of sugar and a squeeze of lemon or orange juice. A few drops of vinegar, particularly balsamic, can transform a bland sauce. When you've an audience in the kitchen, remember to flambe -- the drama is bound to carry the day.

Turning to good looks, when meat has not browned the way it should or the roast chicken has scorched when you weren't looking, a shower of chopped parsley or other fresh herb is the universal remedy.

If you have a few minutes, heat the deep fryer. Pluck the sprigs from a big bunch of parsley and drop them into the fat when it is hot -- about 360 degrees. The parsley will sputter, turn bright green and in 30 seconds will be crisp. Transfer it with a slotted spoon to drain on paper towels. It will keep for half an hour and cloak almost any food in a tempting, crispy blanket.

When dressing an individual plate, assemble a little bunch of bay leaf, parsley and thyme (it even has a name: bouquet garni) and impale the stems so the herb leaves branch gracefully over what you want to hide. Alternatively, distract the eye of your guests with lemon twists or tomato roses. Yes, I know they are old-fashioned, but grandma knew what she was doing.

Chicken. Let's look at chicken breasts, inherently white and flabby. A brisk rub before frying or baking in the oven will not only flavor the breasts, but color them, too. This favorite mix of mine is a version of Indian garam masala.

Spicy chicken rub. In an electric coffee grinder, combine a cinnamon stick, broken in pieces, 1 bay leaf, 1 tablespoon cumin seeds, 1 tablespoon coriander seeds, 2 teaspoons black peppercorns, 3 whole cloves, the seeds from 6 cardamom pods and 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg. Grind everything to a fine powder. This makes about 1/4 cup spice mix, enough for 8 chicken breasts.

If the chicken breasts are already cooked and look depressing, thinly slice them on the diagonal and arrange the slices overlapping in a curve on the plate. No matter if the chicken is hot or cold, it will be terrific with this cheerful little sauce from Mauritius and some rice or couscous on the side.

Rougaille: Stir 1 chopped onion into the pan and fry until golden. Add 2 chopped garlic cloves, 1 teaspoon ground cumin, plus salt and pepper to taste, and fry over low heat, stirring for 1 minute. Add 2 seeded and chopped tomatoes and fry 2 to 3 minutes longer. Stir in 2 to 3 tablespoons chopped cilantro, taste and adjust the seasoning. Spoon rougaille over the chicken and serve to 4.

Steak. For the very best steak, in my opinion, there are two ways to go. One is a recent discovery of mine, a fast version of the classic bordelaise treatment involving a red wine jus and a shower of finely chopped raw shallots, as in the steak bordelaise that follows. The second fix is the classic cracked pepper treatment, with a sauce made by dissolving the pan juices in cream. For both recipes, the steak is pan-fried to obtain vital caramelized juices.