Wine of the week

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Sincerely, Sauvignon Blanc, Western Cape, 2005, $13

Sincerely is the second label of Neil Ellis, one of South Africa's most esteemed vintners. The Neil Ellis sauvignon blanc, racy and bracing, ranks as one of the country's finest, but the Sincerely rendition of 2005 is just as good. Less aggressive than its more expensive big brother, it offers rich but gracious warm-weather sipping.

True to the grape variety, this wine displays fresh citrus (grapefruit) flavors with herbal undertones and a mineral-tinged finish.

Dry but filled with fruit, it is a gentle version of a grape that sometimes can seem almost too forceful. In this, it bears more than a passing resemblance to sauvignon blanc's French model — the gracefully elegant wines of Pouilly-Fume and Sancerre.

Drink this seductive white with seasonal fare such as light seafood, salads, or fresh-from-the-garden vegetables. Age won't help it, but you can enjoy it all summer. (Imported by Vineyard Brands.)