Morocco's savory tagines

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Mention Morocco and visions of sweeping sand dunes, loping camels and bustling marketplaces spring to mind. Mention this exotic North African country to me, and I think of russet-colored tagines. Morocco is the land of succulent stews and the shallow, clay containers in which they simmer.

I fell for both several years ago on a road trip through Morocco. On the edge of the Sahara, I indulged in countless dinners of fall-off-the-bone chicken, preserved lemons and olives, and red snapper with fiery charmoula seasoning, potatoes and peppers. All were prepared in and referred to as tagines.

Fearing that I would not find this delectable dish back home, I purchased my own terra cotta tagine. No sooner did I have the coveted cookware in hand than I began to fret over breaking and losing it.

Tagines seem to be everywhere these days. I need only stop by a local kitchen supply store or cookware store at the mall or dine at a neighboring Moroccan restaurant to experience its culinary magic. The pottery and the entree have captured the imaginations of cooks and diners throughout the country.

The tagine is an engineering wonder. It has two parts: a circular, shallow pan and the large, conical-topped cover that fits inside the base. The cone shape allows condensation to cascade back down to the casserole, creating a rich, reduced sauce. The lid has a small knob on the top, providing cooks with something to grasp when removing the cover to check on the bubbling contents within.

Traditionally comprised of glazed terra cotta, today's tagines come in materials familiar to the modern cook. Combinations range from stainless steel bottom and earthenware cover, courtesy of All-Clad, to cast iron and earthenware from Le Creuset. Unlike the classic clay construction, the new, pricier versions can be placed directly on a burner without the use of a heat diffuser. I must slide a cast iron skillet of comparable size beneath my old-fashioned pot before firing up the stovetop.

When making tagines at home, I use my $14 clay model. Frequent use has seasoned this simple vessel, adding intense flavor to every meal.

Mohamed Elmaarouf, owner of Imports from Marrakesh Ltd. in New York's Chelsea Market, also prefers terra cotta to the fancier, metal-based counterparts. "It holds heat longer and better so the food doesn't get cold quickly, and it can be used from the stove to the tabletop," he says. His store carries a plethora of glazed terra cotta tagines, from condiment-size to those for parties of 12.

Mr. Elmaarouf advises seasoning the terra cotta baker before using it. He recommends soaking it in hot water overnight, then rubbing olive oil onto it and placing it in a 200-degree oven for 20 minutes.

Following a different seasoning method for my tagine, I put water, olive oil, onions, zucchini and carrots and a sprinkling of spices, including turmeric, cumin and garlic, in the bottom. After covering with the lid, I put the pot into a 300-degree oven for 40 minutes. I then removed it and allowed it to cool. After it reached room temperature, I discarded the contents and washed the tagine in preparation for its first real use.