Morocco’s savory tagines

Mention Morocco and visions of sweeping sand dunes, loping camels and bustling marketplaces spring to mind. Mention this exotic North African country to me, and I think of russet-colored tagines. Morocco is the land of succulent stews and the shallow, clay containers in which they simmer.

I fell for both several years ago on a road trip through Morocco. On the edge of the Sahara, I indulged in countless dinners of fall-off-the-bone chicken, preserved lemons and olives, and red snapper with fiery charmoula seasoning, potatoes and peppers. All were prepared in and referred to as tagines.

Fearing that I would not find this delectable dish back home, I purchased my own terra cotta tagine. No sooner did I have the coveted cookware in hand than I began to fret over breaking and losing it.

Tagines seem to be everywhere these days. I need only stop by a local kitchen supply store or cookware store at the mall or dine at a neighboring Moroccan restaurant to experience its culinary magic. The pottery and the entree have captured the imaginations of cooks and diners throughout the country.

The tagine is an engineering wonder. It has two parts: a circular, shallow pan and the large, conical-topped cover that fits inside the base. The cone shape allows condensation to cascade back down to the casserole, creating a rich, reduced sauce. The lid has a small knob on the top, providing cooks with something to grasp when removing the cover to check on the bubbling contents within.

Traditionally comprised of glazed terra cotta, today’s tagines come in materials familiar to the modern cook. Combinations range from stainless steel bottom and earthenware cover, courtesy of All-Clad, to cast iron and earthenware from Le Creuset. Unlike the classic clay construction, the new, pricier versions can be placed directly on a burner without the use of a heat diffuser. I must slide a cast iron skillet of comparable size beneath my old-fashioned pot before firing up the stovetop.

When making tagines at home, I use my $14 clay model. Frequent use has seasoned this simple vessel, adding intense flavor to every meal.

Mohamed Elmaarouf, owner of Imports from Marrakesh Ltd. in New York’s Chelsea Market, also prefers terra cotta to the fancier, metal-based counterparts. “It holds heat longer and better so the food doesn’t get cold quickly, and it can be used from the stove to the tabletop,” he says. His store carries a plethora of glazed terra cotta tagines, from condiment-size to those for parties of 12.

Mr. Elmaarouf advises seasoning the terra cotta baker before using it. He recommends soaking it in hot water overnight, then rubbing olive oil onto it and placing it in a 200-degree oven for 20 minutes.

Following a different seasoning method for my tagine, I put water, olive oil, onions, zucchini and carrots and a sprinkling of spices, including turmeric, cumin and garlic, in the bottom. After covering with the lid, I put the pot into a 300-degree oven for 40 minutes. I then removed it and allowed it to cool. After it reached room temperature, I discarded the contents and washed the tagine in preparation for its first real use.

Once seasoned and cleaned, tagines will produce an array of delights. Meals can range from spicy meatballs, tomatoes and eggs to a vegetarian fete of soft artichokes, potatoes and peas. Spiced with ancient seasonings like pepper, ginger and cinnamon, the aroma simultaneously soothes and stimulates the senses. Most tagine recipes also include cumin, onion, garlic and saffron, common Berber spices, says Rhomari Abdelziz of Taste of Morocco restaurant in Arlington.

The Moroccan specialty also pairs sweet and savory elements. At Taste of Morocco, lamb is coupled with dried prunes, chicken is joined with dates, and red snapper is matched with sweet onions and raisins. These combinations speak to the medieval roots of tagines and to a time when meats were commonly teamed with sweet ingredients.

Along with a successful marriage of flavors, the food requires patient and attentive care. “The secret to a good tagine is the old-fashioned way of slow, low simmering,” says Said Benjelloun, owner of Casablanca Moroccan Restaurant in Denver.

Simmering allows the diverse flavors to meld together and ensures a tender, juicy, aromatic meal. Cooks must be vigilant, though, and add water as needed. Otherwise, they will end up with a dinner as dry as the desert.

While I was amazed to see tagines popping up in American restaurants and cooking shops, their popularity comes as no surprise to Terry Manfa of Little Marakesh Moroccan Restaurant in Dresher, Pa. “The growth of the Moroccan population in Europe and the U.S. has brought the cuisine to another level,” Mr. Manfa says.

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