'Tis season for salmon

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PORTLAND, Ore. -- Saturday mornings in summer find me early at the Portland farmers market, a caffe latte in one hand and my woven-straw shopping basket in the other. I delight in buying fresh, locally grown produce; in anticipating the fresh-picked corn, the heirloom tomatoes at the peak of season, sweet and hot peppers and garden cucumbers, along with all the berries, peaches and plums I can carry.

We think of vegetables and fruits as having their season, but salmon has a season, too. Early summer through mid-September is the best time to buy wild salmon, not only for the quality of the fish but also for the best price. With our global marketplace and overnight air freight, wild salmon caught one day off the Pacific coast or farther north in Alaska can be in fish markets all over the United States the next day.

My palate changes as the days grow hotter, and so does my cooking style. I want lighter, healthier fare and simpler cooking methods. I grill nearly every day in the summer, and I also make main-course salads and cold soups. I turn on the blender instead of the burners and light the grill instead of the stove. Because of its versatility and its health benefits, salmon is my protein of choice.

Considered a "super food" by doctors and nutritionists, salmon is packed with heart-healthy omega-3 fatty acids and vitamin E, a powerful antioxidant. A French study has found that people who eat salmon at least once a week are less likely to develop dementia. Eating foods high in omega-3s helps control inflammatory processes, has mood-lifting powers and has also been reported to help fight wrinkles, making the skin look and feel younger.

To save money, I often buy a whole salmon and ask the fishmonger to scale it and then fillet it or cut it into steaks, depending on what I plan to cook.

Look for salmon that is moist and glistening, the skin should be silvery and bright, the eyes protruding bright and clear and the fish should smell sweet like the sea, with no discernable fishy odor. Look at the gills, too. They should be bright red or pink; pale or brownish gills means the fish is old. If purchasing fillets or steaks, look at the flesh and make sure that it is moist yet firm and that the edges look freshly cut rather than flat and browned. Excess liquid in the pan or package means either that the fish is deteriorating from improper handling or that it isn't as fresh as it should be.

I grill the succulent and thick center cuts, grind the tail end for salmon burgers or chunk it for chowder. Alternatively, a fillet can be cubed for salmon skewers or left whole and placed in a long, hinged, fish-shaped grill basket or on a wood plank for grilling. The technique for blackening salmon in a cast-iron skillet is so quick there is no time to heat up the kitchen, and I pair it with summer's best tomatoes for a cooling gazpacho garnished with peppers and cucumbers.

In my cooking classes, I tell novice chefs to rub salmon (either fillets or steaks work fine) with olive oil, season with salt, pepper and a pinch of cayenne, and slow roast it on a rimmed baking sheet in a 250-degree oven for 20 minutes. It's absolutely foolproof. A little basil pesto mixed with mayonnaise makes a perfect sauce.

I always prepare extra salmon for terrific leftovers: think salmon hash, salmon tacos, salmon frittata or even salmon pot pie. Serve these as terrific light suppers or as brunch options for summer entertaining. I even flake some into an omelet with cream cheese and chives for breakfast.

As you can see, the possibilities are endless. So stay in tune with the season and get hooked all summer long on this nutrient-packed fish.