‘Africa’s Cuba’ treads path to democracy

COTONOU, Benin

When this West African nation ran short of funds to finance its election machinery, voters raised cash, loaned computers, and lit up vote-counting centers with their motorcycle headlights.

The unusual display of people power demonstrated how a Marxist dictatorship once nicknamed “Africa’s Cuba” has become an unlikely leader on Africa’s checkered path to democracy.

Oscar Zinzindohoue, a cloth vendor, said the sight of those sputtering motorbikes gave him hope for democracy. “We didn’t think it was going to happen,” said Mr. Zinzindohoue, 22, smiling broadly.

With the elections last March, tiny Benin has seen three peaceful transfers of power in 15 years. After the peaceful democratic transitions in Ghana, Senegal, Botswana and elsewhere, many analysts say that if Benin can do it, so can others.

“The trend was moving positively, and Benin has a special place in that history,” said Princeton Lyman, head of the Africa program at the Council on Foreign Relations in Washington.

Era of military rule

Twenty years ago, Benin and the rest of the continent were struggling to shake off the Cold War-era military rulers who took power after most of Africa’s European colonies became independent in the 1960s.

With a command economy, coup leaders in charge and few natural resources, the former French territory stagnated, offering little chance of climbing out of grinding poverty.

Seeing that the system couldn’t continue, dictator Mathieu Kerekou called a national conference of civic and religious leaders, farmers and all the political parties in 1990. They insisted on democratic elections and presidential term limits.

Living up to his nickname “the Chameleon,” Mr. Kerekou held elections, lost them and ceded power. He was re-elected five years later, serving until 2006, and two other elected presidents came from outside his political circle. Their banking background helped bring economic reforms that encouraged investment and loosened the state’s command of markets.

As much of the rest of Africa stumbled through wars, overthrows and elections during the last two decades, Benin nurtured tourism, a free press and a stable economy built largely on agriculture and services.

Benin is different from other African countries in many ways. It is small: only 8 million people in a country the size of Pennsylvania. It has one national language, French, and a widespread mixing of ethnic groups that fosters stability.

But Adrien Ahahanzo Glele, a former government minister and now a campaigner for democracy, says Benin shares something important with the rest of the continent: “The people of Africa know now that they want democracy. You can see it in their eyes.”

Poverty persists, the average daily wage is only $3, and population growth swallows many of the economic gains, but new conference centers, small restaurants and banks have mushroomed in Cotonou, the main city.

Story Continues →