Rustico chef touts 'everyday food'

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Variety may be the spice of life, but for Frank Morales, spices are his life.

Mr. Morales has been hired as executive chef at Rustico Restaurant in Old Town Alexandria, where he seeks to continue what he calls a "celebration of everyday food."

At Rustico, customers can choose from a wide selection of rotisserie meats, seafood and homemade pizzas. The neighborhood eatery also features a beer bar with nearly 250 brews.

Mr. Morales enjoys the innovative aspect of being a chef and plans to resurrect some old-time recipes.

"I get to discover new products [like] artisan cheese, great hams and time-honored traditions," he said of his job. "We've gotten away from traditions. We need to get back to rediscovering the past."

Before the 39-year-old chef signed on with Rustico this month, he worked at several noted New York restaurants, including Union Pacific, as sous chef under Rocco DiSpirito, Le Cirque under Sylvan Portay and An American Place under Larry Lorgione. Most recently, he worked at Zola and the Oval Room in Northwest.

"Frank is the ideal chef in every way: professional, passionate and dedicated to perfection," said Michael Babin, co-owner of the Neighborhood Restaurant Group to which Rustico belongs. "I knew the moment that we met that I had found not only the perfect person to head the kitchen at Rustico, but also a partner who understood the concept and could enhance it going forward."

Mr. Morales said the best part of his new job begins early in the morning, when he prepares the day's meats and sauces with help from his kitchen staff of six to eight persons.

Mr. Morales especially enjoys the stone hearth oven and hickory wood-burning grill that give the restaurant its down-home flavor. "Starting the fire is a wonderful start to my day," he said.

The days ahead, however, will have their challenges.