Fruit-dessert overload happily drives us nuts

It’s OK to go a little nutty with desserts this time of the year when summer fruit is a dim memory and you’ve had your fill of apples.

Nuts go so well with butter, sugar, spices and chocolate.

Although most nut types, including almonds and macadamia, are excellent in sweets, pecans and walnuts are my favorites.

I prefer pecans when I want a subtle buttery taste in a dessert. Pecans are wonderful in pies and in cheesecake. Walnuts have a more distinctive herbal flavor and meaty texture that I enjoy in cookies and quick breads.

Whichever nut you choose, here are some tips on getting the best quality.

• Nuts are harvested in the fall and stored in climate-controlled conditions to preserve their freshness.

• Any nut should smell neutral to sweet, not musty.

• The texture should be crisp, not soggy.

• The color of the skin and the size of the nut will vary with the variety. However, skip any package that has a large proportion of discolored nuts.

• Also take a pass on nuts that are shriveled, not plump.

If you want to bring out the rich flavor of nuts, toast them before using. Place the nuts in a single layer in a heavy-bottomed skillet. Heat over low-medium heat for one to five minutes, shaking the skillet frequently, until the nuts turn light golden brown and become aromatic. Remove from the skillet immediately so the nuts don’t continue to brown.

The following recipe was inspired by a dish served at Mulvaney’s Building & Loan, a Sacramento, Calif., restaurant. The dessert was part of a meal featuring walnuts during a program sponsored by the California Walnut Board.

Phyllo and walnut stack

1 sheet phyllo dough

1½ tablespoons unsalted butter

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