- Egypt rights center raided, 2 Mubaraks acquitted
- New Mexico Supreme Court rules same-sex marriage constitutional
- Blame Bush: 5 years later, that’s still the mantra, pollsters find
- Dutch prostitutes demand same retirement benefits as soccer stars
- John McCain to Harry Reid: I’ll ‘kick the crap’ out of you
- Dogs that talk: Researchers seek $10K for ‘No More Woof’ technology
- 1,000 firefighters called to battle stubborn Big Sur wildfire
- Black Friday brouhaha: Millions of Target shoppers hit by credit card theft
- Britain orders airplane to rescue citizens from violent South Sudan
- Mega Millions winner emerges as Georgia mom, in ‘disbelief’
A Belgian delight
Question of the Day
Dr. Granville Moore’s, a Belgian restaurant on H Street Northeast, is a perfect match for this difficult-to-define neighborhood: Boarded-up storefronts next to alive-and-well restaurants, expensive suits sharing the sidewalks with the down-and-out - it’s a literal and figurative intersection of the old and the new.
Just like its setting, Dr. Granville Moore’s is a mishmash of the then and now. It is in a typical old, narrow, two-story Capitol Hill row house that once was the office of Dr. Granville Moore, a neighborhood doctor. (One wall sports a plaque commemorating his service to the community; he reportedly treated the poor for free.)
The interior is partly rehabilitated - exposed brick is interspersed with patches of plaster - and tables and chairs are old and mismatched (and a tad unstable in our case) creating an almost World-War-II-in-Europe movie-set feel. Beer choices are listed on blackboards, and glasses tend toward the stocky, near-unbreakable kind.
Of the three - all popular - Belgian restaurants in town (including Belga and Brasserie Beck) Granville is by far the most laid-back. It’s quirky but not in the least pretentious.
The large menu has one page of food items; the rest consists of various libations, primarily Belgian beers - there are more than 60 of them - in all shapes, sizes, colors, strengths and flavors. If you need assistance selecting a brew, the waiters and bartenders can help. They can talk intelligently about any and all offerings. They clearly have done their homework.
As has executive chef Teddy Folkman (formerly of the Reef and Vermillion) who serves up a short but delicious menu of Belgian favorites, including mussels and hand-cut, twice-fried pommes frites.
But not so fast.
We didn’t get to our food for a quite a while because with fame - Granville’s Mr. Folkman recently won a Bobby Flay Throwdown competition on the Food Network - comes crowds. And the restaurant doesn’t take reservations.
We started at the upstairs bar (there’s one bar per floor) with a Chimay White at $9 and a Stella Artois at $4 - yes, quite the price range. So, things were off to a good start.
Though the palate was pleased with refreshing cold beer bubbles, the tummy was not. After 20 minutes, we were seated and quickly ordered the antipasto plate (requires no cooking, just plating) of buffalo mozzarella, cured meats, tasty roasted tomatoes, olives and crostini, which arrived pronto.
The rest? It took another 45 minutes to receive our bison burger and two bowls of mussels.
It’s worth the wait, though, because Mr. Folkman’s food is all that. The Prince Edward Island mussels are perfectly steamed, and the broths are divine.
The moules fromage blue - with which Mr. Folkman beat Mr. Flay - successfully combines the mussels with blue cheese, bacon, shallots, spinach, white wine and lemon. Somehow, the pungent blue cheese doesn’t negate the mild seafood but rather complements it. Wish, though, that the portion of broth were a little more generous.
While flavor, atmosphere and even service are king (the delay was a kitchen issue; our waiter was attentive despite a very busy floor) presentation is not. The prepared-to-order, nicely flavored bison burger, served on a perfect brioche bun, arrives a la any bar dish - slapped on a plate with French fries on the side.
But these are not just any fried potato strips. They are hand-cut and twice fried. Tasty, but unfortunately for us, we got the last of the batch: too greasy on the outside and a tad dry on the inside.
About the Author
By Andrew P. Napolitano
Fourth Amendment says Obama is not at liberty to collect metadata
- Calling sentence disparities unfair, Obama pardons 8 crack offenders
- Homeland Security helps smuggle illegal immigrant children into the U.S.
- Gov't wasted $30 billion on 'pillownauts,' crystal goblets -- buying human urine!
- Duck Dynasty Phil Robertson suspended indefinitely for gay quip
- Bill Gates: The Secret Santa disguised as a 'friendly fellow' on Reddit
- Armed response, not restrictive gun laws, brought swift end to school shooting
- Obamacare 'pajamas boy' gets roundly mocked
- BOLTON: Nero in the White House
- Democrats cite pope in call for minimum wage hike, jobless benefits
- Outrage over Phil Robertson suspension, 'malignant' political correctness
Independent voices from the The Washington Times Communities
The world impacts us. What happens in our towns, cities, states, country and on this planet makes a difference to us.
Brazen, leading-edge, “call it like it is” columns and reporting from Ohio native, radio host and writer, Sara Marie Brenner.
Crystal Wright is a black conservative woman living in Washington, D.C.
Wall Street news for retail investors who want to know what's going on.
Top 10 handguns in the U.S.
Extraordinary day at Redskins Park
White House pets gone wild!
Let it snow