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Ulah Bistro varies menu, quality

By Gabriella Boston | Wednesday, July 16, 2008

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Washington's U Street has the Barcelona vibe. It's loud, hip and the fun starts around midnight. That's why the new Ulah Bistro fits so perfectly.

The two-story bistro with exposed-brick walls offers groovy jazz, two bars and a lounge with Barcelona-style chairs upstairs. There's even a late-night menu for those who get the munchies in the wee hours - the kitchen is open until 2 a.m.

The prices are right, the menu is long and varied and the portions are surprisingly generous, but the food preparation and quality are uneven.

The ahi tuna tartar, nicely paired with a seaweed salad and wasabi sauce, could have been a little fresher, and the "American pate" (think meatloaf) was a bit off on flavor and texture.

The bistro frites were on the dry side.

The Ulah salad - arugula with pine nuts, Gorgonzola cheese, portobello mushrooms and a lemon vinaigrette - though, was fresh, and the flavors and textures combined nicely, but it could've used some more dressing.

Ulah Bistro, like Stoney's Bar and Grill in Logan Circle and Tunicliff's on Capitol Hill, is owned by Med Lahlou, and the trio of restaurants share several qualities, both good and bad. (Ulah is derived from U Street and the proprietor's surname.)

In general, they're all laid-back and friendly, ideal for a quick bite to eat and a drink or two before a sports event or show. Food-wise, they're predictable at best and in several cases they disappoint.

Ulah's 14-ounce New York strip steak looked great when it was served - thick, juicy and cooked as ordered, but it turned out to be flavorless and a tad chewy.

It's probably not the goal of Mr. Lahlou to be at the forefront of culinary innovation, and if you arrive with low expectations of the food and high expectations on the atmosphere, you'll probably be satisifed.