DINING: Plume’s superb sparkle

In Plume, the restaurant in the newly and beautifully renovated Jefferson Hotel, everyone wears a slim silvery plume in a lapel. My playful remark that a good dinner could be a feather in the cap of the chef was received by my attentive, efficient waiter without the trace of a smile.

And that may be the problem with Plume — it takes itself very seriously from the opulent decor to the bevy of waiters springing to attention, like toy soldiers, albeit not quite hovering. A small quibble, true, but a bit off-putting nonetheless in a small restaurant with only about 17 large round tables, covered in dark green cloth with silver pheasants gracing each table. A small velvet-covered footstool is placed next to each lady’s chair for her handbag.

The space is somewhat awkwardly divided into a front section, under a vaulted glass roof, making it the Greenhouse at lunchtime, and a rear section with a lower ceiling. The chargers at each setting reflect a mysterious glow. Silverware shines; large and delicate wine glasses sparkle. Scenes from Monticello reflect from the wallpaper.

All that seems to be missing are Leslie Caron and Louis Jourdan in evening dress stepping out of Maxim’s, and an orchestra playing “La Vie en Rose.” Plume feels like a stage setting.

Plume may be pretentious, but none of this necessarily has anything to do with the contemporary French cuisine, which is superb. Dinner begins with complimentary sparkling or still water and a glass of excellent French champagne. Then come several gifts from the chef, including a demitasse of a wonderful earthy celery soup.

The menu is not lengthy: six appetizers and six main courses. A feuillete of caramelized veal sweetbreads surprises, the puff pastry light and flaky, the sauteed mushrooms fresh and good, the accompanying vanilla sauce a delight. The surprise was the main ingredient, tasting like small pieces of veal scaloppini rather than sweetbreads.

A slim sliver of terrine of foie gras is served with a pear chutney and a bit of pear compote. The terrine could not have been better, though the portion was minuscule. Another surprise first course is a soft-poached egg served with grilled bread, chanterelle mushrooms and a coffee emulsion.

Chef Damon Gordon’s main courses include splendid medallions of pork, succulent, rich and flavorful. The pork is served with pommes dauphine, a few baby turnips and a compote of apricots and raisins, which adds a lovely sweetness. The potatoes are served in a separate dish. A nice touch.

A pave of wild-caught salmon — ordered from the chef’s tasting menu — was equally delicious. Cooked perfectly and so fresh you could taste the sea, the fish didn’t need the caviar on the crispy skin. The wilted red chard accompanying the fish is perhaps too strong a contrast to the delicacy of the salmon.

The chef prepares a seven-course tasting menu that changes daily. At a recent dinner, with the exception of the salmon and a dessert, everything was available on the a la carte menu as well.

Another gift from the chef arrives just before dessert — a pre-dessert of a tiny parfait of diced pineapple on the bottom, covered with a chocolate risotto and a frothy chocolate cream on top. Small, tasty and just right. The regular desserts seem to be trying too hard with too many flavors and textures that don’t mesh.

There are more menu choices at lunch than at dinner. Lunchtime appetizers include a bison carpaccio, Maryland crab cake, salmon tartar, and spinach and mushroom ravioli. Main courses include Cobb and Nicoise salads, a quiche du jour, a vegetable club sandwich, macaroni and cheese and chicken potpie.

The wine list offers four white and four red wines by the glass, but there is an extensive list of half-bottles.

Plume is among the most expensive restaurants in town. Portions are small and choices limited. But what you get is very good, and dining at Plume is dramatic theater. For the experience, but less dear, there’s Quill, the charming small bar.

RESTAURANT: Plume, 1200 16th St. NW, 202/448-2300

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