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Georges Chakra designs his Edition collection for the party circuit, but using a more restrained hand served him well at the Saturday preview at New York Fashion Week.

Among the best looks were a black chiffon-and-satin gown with a beaded neckline worn with a red distressed trench-style opera coat, and a black lace pantsuit that was sexy with its champagne-colored illusion effect but with a silhouette loose enough to keep it from being a costume.

Sending some of the same messages as other designers at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week, Chakra played with multiple fabrics and textures, and tweaked the leather-sleeve trend with long opera gloves.

But he overused the backward silhouette too much, enough to make you wonder if Chakra is coming or going as a player on the red carpet.