Midnight grocery runs capture economic desperation

Food-stamp recipients learn how to ration, then wait

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FREDERICKSBURG, Va. | Once a month, just after midnight, the beeping checkout scanners at a Wal-Mart just off Interstate 95 come alive in a chorus of financial desperation.

Here and at other grocery stores across the country, the chimes come just after food stamps and other monthly government benefits drop into the accounts of shoppers who have been rationing items such as milk, ground beef and toilet paper and can finally stock up again.

Shoppers mill around the store after 11 p.m., killing time until their accounts are replenished. When midnight strikes, they rush for the checkout counter.

“The kids are sleeping, so we go do what we’ve gotta do. Money is tight,” Martin Young said as he and his wife pushed two carts piled high with food and other household essentials.

The couple said they need food-stamp benefits, which are deposited electronically onto debit cards, because his job as a restaurant server doesn’t cover expenses for their five children.

“We try to get here between 10:30 and 11 because we know we’ve got a lot of stuff to get. That way by 12 o’clock we’re at the line cashing out and done,” he said.

More than a year after the technical end of the Great Recession, millions of Americans still have a hard time stretching their dollars until the first of the month, or even the next payday.

One in seven Americans live in poverty, and more than 41 million are on food stamps, a record. Last year, the figure was about 35 million.

As a result, there are more scenes like the one last week at a 24-hour Kroger in Cincinnati. As the final hours of September ticked down, about five dozen cars were in the parking lot. It’s much slower on normal weeknights.

“This here is emergency bread,” said Malinda Patterson, 36, who has been without a full-time job since the recession began and had started shopping 20 minutes before midnight. That was when $435 went into her food-stamp account to help feed her six children.

The same night, Shavon Smith and her four young children were loading up on meat, fruit, bread, water, tissues and cereal at Kroger’s Food 4 Less store on Chicago’s West Side. The family had begun running out of those staples more than a week earlier.

“Tonight, they were tired and hungry, so I said, ‘Let’s go ahead and do it now,’” said Mrs. Smith, who had $600 in food stamps deposited electronically to her debit card at midnight.

“They can go to the fridge and get whatever they want in the beginning of the month, and we have bigger meals,” a reprieve from the rationing that is the rule for the rest of the month, she added.

Stores have always noted swings in spending around paydays — a drop-off in buying in the days before shoppers receive paychecks or government subsidies, followed by a spurt of spending once the money is available.

The recession and its aftermath have taken the trend to an extreme. Tight credit is a factor, too. When the cash has been spent, many can no longer fall back on credit cards to buy what they need.

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