Final night of NY Fashion Week features big names

NEW YORK (AP) - Marc Jacobs. Calvin Klein. Ralph Lauren. Spring previews wrap up Thursday at New York Fashion Week with shows by some of the most influential designers in the business before the industry moves on to the runways of London, Milan and Paris.

Lauren’s show always seems to come at the right time, when the exhausted crowd needs a breath of fresh elegance after eight days of non-stop fashion.

They got it this time around with Lauren’s loose “Great Gatsby” silhouettes and wide-legged pants and shorts suits, some paired with men’s ties that looked more Tom than Daisy.

The pale palette shimmered in soft pinks, silvers, whites and greens. It was a distinct departure from the bursts of bright color and less-dainty florals that dominated eight days of shows for editors, stylists and retailers.

Feathers in boas were carried over to the neck and hemlines of flapper dresses in outfits complete with hats of the era.

Elegance came in delicate slip dresses from Francisco Costa’s vision of next spring for Klein, in the colors of blush, champagne and black.

Another classic American brand, Bill Blass, preserved the past and forged a future in the hands of Jeffrey Monteiro. He was chosen almost two years ago to revive the line after years of tough going for the company.

He showed familiar, impeccably tailored navy coats and blazers, but underneath a navy twill peacoat was a bandeau top. A white halter jumpsuit had no back at all. A number of looks for evening exposed an equal amount of skin.

As soon as the Lincoln Center tents come down, London Fashion Week begins Friday.

RALPH LAUREN

The intersection of sportswear and elegance happens on the Ralph Lauren runway. It gives him a place on the American fashion scene like no one else.

There was a feminine hint of ruffle in a floral print, optic white menswear suits, luxe liquidlike fabrics and Deco beading were all part of Lauren’s reimagining of ‘20s style.

Lauren showed great skill in balancing simple shapes the hardest thing to do well _ with glamorous details: an ostrich feather scarf here or beaded bag there.

The ivory skirt suit with a hammered-satin tank top, accessorized with an embroidered linen clutch bag and ivory sandal is a lot harder to pull off than something dripping with decoration.

“He’s so renowned for desirable, memorable and modern clothes,” said Glenda Bailey, editor in chief of Harper’s Bazaar.

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