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NY Fashion Week launches with a twist for buyers
Question of the Day
With all the news buzzing at the Lincoln Center tents _ John Galliano’s guilty verdict and President Obama’s speech on the economy _ Max and Lubov Azria took a soothing approach to lift the mood, at least for a moment.
Dresses continue as their strong suit: A-line sundresses with fanlike pleats, barely there slip dresses and flowing scarf styles. While delicacy and modesty prevailed, there were hints of bolder sexiness with a bra-top style here and a low, open back there.
Most of the looks were rooted in chalk gray, light stone or blush pink but pops of yellow, blue, coral and emerald green were used effectively.
The goal, the Azrias explained in their notes, was a mashup of neutrals with tribal-inspired prints and embroideries “reflecting an urban, global spirit.”
The tribal thing wasn’t too literal, though, which kept the clothes from being costumey.
Chai’s customers must be planning a busy spring, bouncing from the golf course to the Scottish Highlands to the beach. Maybe they’ll squeeze in a safari.
His Love label includes men’s and women’s collections. There was a slight androgynous vibe on the catwalk with colors, patterns and even some silhouettes moving rather seamlessly between the male and female models.
Some of the best looks were in an iris print _ effortless tied-around-the-waist skirts for her and a pullover shirt for him. Texture had a big role in the clothes, and that stepped up the solid double-breasted swingy balmacaan coat and coated cotton blazer.
Some of the men’s clothes seemed a bit over the top. The baggy board shorts were just too much fabric, especially with the matching blazers, and the muscle T seems a stretch for the runway.
Try picturing the basketball stars lining the front row _ Dwayne Wade and A’mare Stoudemire _ in the snakeskin-style striped tank. Those guys could pull off the flowery Hawaiian shirts, though.
Shoji threw a garden party with literal and abstract interpretations of flower-inspired fashion.
He was drawn to the tulip, he explained in his notes, because it “is full of life, incessantly evolving and changing in shape.”
Besides the purple strapless short frock with a classic tulip hemline and the more unusual floor-length version, Shoji also offered floral appliques, floral prints and floral-inspired lace. All of his colors had flora names, including daisy, petunia, fern, magnolia, rosebud and willow.
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