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A touch of nerves over security at NY Fashion Week
The Olsens, who were nominated earlier this year for the Council of Fashion Designers of America award for emerging talent, have shown they’re serious about fashion and stepped up their game.
RAG & BONE
Marcus Wainwright and David Neville must know some sophisticated surfers.
The designers turned out a spring collection that used a stylish hand to rework the sporty shapes and bright colors one expects to see at the beach to make them urban appropriate.
They used the emerging bright color palette from this round of previews and embraced wearable layers, including a mesh top with a knit biker jacket and a rough-edge tweed blanket jacket worn with a mesh blouse.
The collection evolved as the designers _ maybe haphazardly _ moved back and forth from their original inspiration to the clean lines of modern architecture. And, oh yeah, they tossed in a little retro parachute fabric, too.
They wanted it to be about more than the expected neoprene, although ‘70s surfers served as an inspiration, Wainwright said. Nothing like a tailored navy crepe jacket paired with a turquoise poncho and black bandeau bikini top.
Of course that’s the way the runway is styled, and even there the outfits did all come together in a way that suits the label’s fashion-forward customer. The key pieces _ those ponchos, crochet tops, neon bikinis, leather hooded sweatshirts, gaucho pants and asymmetrical skirts _ could stand on their own in the closets of the designers’ fans.
If Bryce Black wins this season of “Project Runway,” look for his new T-shirt: “Klum of Doom.”
Yet there was one thing even more frightening than judge Heidi Klum, he said, and that’s appearing in public.
Black and the other eight remaining contestants for the ninth season got the chance to explain their looks from the runway at the Lincoln Center tents. Black’s clothes included a number of odd-looking military-style jackets, some in pastels, and a lot of trousers with large, exaggerated seams.
Who’s on track to win? Hard to tell, but the crowd seemed to like the bright, breezy style of Anya Ayoung Chee. Her designs included a long, silky colorful dress with a metallic halter strap.
Representing the over-50 set was Bert Keeter, 57, who seemed a bit surprised to be there. He favored simple designs in white, tan and black.
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