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“Mysterious, sexy and super urban” was how Costa described it just after the show. “The iconography for this is all super modern,” he said.

“The Girl with the Dragon Tattoo” star Rooney Mara sat in the front row, and the clean, architectural and unadorned style that Costa has crafted as his Calvin Klein signature seems a perfect fit for her. She might be the one to pull off a leather look at the Academy Awards.

The colors, as usual here, were dark and stark, with the only bright moments coming from a few flashes of red and a salmon-colored dress made of a glazed tweed and tulle.

The mixing of fabrics that this crowd has gotten used to seeing over the past few days was done best on a dress that combined gray wool flannel and black shaved shearling. Another standout look was a black-leather, funnel-neck bodice and a winter-white moleskin skirt. Costa also sneaked in white leather panels in the folds of some black pleated skirts.

RALPH LAUREN

Ralph Lauren and refinement go together like England and tweed. “I have always loved the heritage and romance of England. My collection for fall 2012 is about a modern glamour inspired by timeless character and refined elegance of an authentic way of living,” Lauren said in an email to The Associated Press.

To the music of “Downton Abbey,” a popular PBS show about a British manor in the World War I era, models began their parade in riding clothes _ plaid jodhpurs, houndstooth coats, Fair Isle sweaters and button-down shirts with contrasting white club collars _ and ended in slinky evening gowns with jeweled collars.

There was variety in the silhouettes, with trousers, for example ranging from wide-leg pleated pants to slim cuts, and there were tailored jackets long and short. One of the most striking looks was an animal-print shearling jacket. The new version of the pantsuit was a below-the-hip lean blazer with skinny pants in the same plaid pattern but different scales.

The Ralph Lauren lady _ and she is very ladylike even in man-tailored styles _ relaxes at home in a black velvet smoking robe with a bright-red shearling collar, but when it’s time for an appointment in town she looks like a million bucks in her black cashmere jacket, sequin-front cashmere sweater and high-waist pencil skirt.

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