- Associated Press - Tuesday, February 7, 2012

STOSIKOVICE NA LOUCE, Czech Republic — In a vineyard in Moravia, the Arctic chill striking Europe has some people jumping with joy.

Winemakers in southeast Czech Republic, waiting for a dip in temperatures during an unusually warm winter, finally got the deep chill they needed to harvest grapes for the most prestigious part of their business - ice wine.

The sense of relief was palpable after temperatures finally dropped to 19 degrees, allowing grapes to be picked for the sweet, expensive wine. Strict government regulations are in place saying the grapes for ice wine can’t be picked until the mercury drops to that level.

“Thank God! It’s minus 13 (Celsius, 8.6 Fahrenheit) today,” Antonin Zatloukal said with relief at the Three Oaks vineyard at dawn on a recent frigid February day with a biting wind. The deputy director of the Znovin Znojmo winery was there to oversee the harvest of around 10 metric tons (11.02 tons) of pinot noir and traminer grapes.

“We never picked the grapes so late before,” Mr. Zatloukal said. “Previously, we always managed to do it before the year’s end.”

When the grapes are harvested, they immediately are taken for pressing. With the water inside them frozen, the result of the pressing is a highly concentrated juice, rich in sugar and acids, which then undergoes fermentation before it becomes ice wine.

Ice wine, which is believed to have been invented by accident in Germany in the late 18th century, is made in several European countries, including Switzerland, Germany, Austria and Slovenia, in addition to Canada and the U.S. It goes well with sweet desserts.

In the Czech Republic, a tradition of winemaking has been undergoing a considerable revival after decades of stagnation under communist rule, which ended in 1989.

This winter, though, many people already had given up and harvested the grapes originally meant to be used for ice wine because of fears they could be damaged by warm and rainy weather, eaten by birds or simply stolen by thieves.

“They just thought it’s better to be safe than sorry,” said Jiri Sedlo, chairman of the Czech Association of Winemakers.

Mr. Zatloukal said the pickers had been ready three times at the vineyard this winter, but the temperature never dropped far enough.

“About 10 days ago, I almost gave up any hope,” said Libor Kahoun, the director of a company that grows the grapes for Znovin. “But we decided to wait because the grapes were in very good condition.”

“We expect a high quality vintage,” Mr. Zatloukal said. “The grapes are healthy.”

The pickers didn’t seem to be bothered by the freezing conditions.

“I don’t care much about the cold, we’re used to every [type of] weather,” one of them, Iva Rezacova, said.

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