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The verdict of this foodie? “It’s really good,” he says. “It may not be typical soul food, but it’s good!”

After dessert, Sood is heading to sample the new Lenox Coffee nearby. Red Rooster, some point out, is not the only culinary example of a revitalized Harlem.

“It’s a much bigger story,” says Tim Zagat, founder of the famous guide. “It’s been happening for the last decade. But Marcus has been front and center on the public side of this story, because of who he is, and he’s doing a great service to Harlem _ and to us all.”

Speaking to Samuelsson, though, one senses he’d consider it a shame if Red Rooster were the end of the story, rather than a beginning.

“What I want is to create normalcy here,” he says. “I resent it when people come to Harlem to take pictures and get back on the tour bus. This is an opportunity to get off that tour bus.”

After all, he asks: “Why should New York City be confined to 50 blocks?”