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To end, Saunders upped the `70s disco fever feel with a series of fully sequined dresses in bright stripes of color: Black with blue and silver, and black with red and green. On another designer it could have looked tacky, but on Saunders, it somehow all worked.

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MARIOS SCHWAB

While other designers work summery watercolor hues and bold prints, Marios Schwab’s catwalk show Sunday was a darkly seductive affair of shredded leather, smoldering midnight tones and tribal detailing.

Drawing inspiration from an idea of the Amazon warrior, Schwab opened his show with a series of dresses in sheer layers of black and oxblood, decorated with leather tassels.

These tassels appeared throughout the show - adorning high heels or flat lace-up gladiator sandals, on lapels, in short parallel rows down the bodice, or strategically shielding the body on sheer gowns.

Schwab also created texture with pleating, which was used first on leather dresses in fuchsia and inky blue, then later on chiffon skirts paired with lace tops in the same hue.

Schwab’s designs always play on seduction and have a mysterious femme fatale element to them, and his spring collection was no exception. Models’ bare bodies were just visible under the layers of light material, and at times high slits on the pleated leather skirts revealed flesh-toned mesh layers beneath.

The final evening pieces - nude or sheer black high-collared column gowns embellished with tassels and beading - were dramatic showstoppers.

The Greco-Austrian designer’s show was packed, with front row guests including Japanese Vogue’s editor Anna Dello Russo.