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White leather-lace pants fit tightly but looked classy, not trashy.

A series of outfits were also seen in delicately printed silk, pairing wide trousers or ladylike skirts with an extra-long jacket in the same print. The floral (usually jungle) prints came in pale green, pink, and apricot and at times were mixed with spotted and striped animal prints. Still, the effect was serene, rather than the usual sexual aggression evoked by jungle references.

There was serenity, too, in a series of negligee-inspired dresses. Despite their lacy embroidery and enticingly innocent styles, the models walking down the runway never crossed the line from sexy into vulgar.


Leave it to Dean and Dan Caten to go over the top.

The Canadian twins behind the DSquared2 label hit the `’excess” button on their spring-summer 2013 womenswear collection, which was four parts black biker chic and one part ruffles and ribbons. The excess was especially strong on the accessories, with gold chains and strands of pearls draped by the dozen around models’ necks.

Bare legs were the centerpiece of most of the outfits, be they cheek-baring hot pants, mini-dresses or even micro-minis small enough to confuse with belts. The looks were paired with high-heeled leather sandals or boots for maximum sex appeal.

The collection reached a crescendo with a gown fit for Alice in Wonderland’s Queen of Hearts. Mini in the front, the dress rippled out to an oversized squared train, edged with wide purple-and-black ribbon. A large ruffle fanned over the bust in this creation strictly for the statuesque.

`’Unapologetically sexy and rigorously glamour, `’ the twins wrote in their fashion notes. `’Nothing exceeds like excess.”


The designing team of Federico Piaggi and Stefano Citron presented their third runway collection for the label since taking over last year. The company has had a troubled design succession since the sudden death in 2007 of founder Gianfranco Ferre.

Their new collection had hints of Asia, including a bustier embroidered with snakes and maxi-obis that become mini-dresses. Asymmetric shorts and quilted skirts were paired with tailored white shirts _ a clear reference to the style of the late founder.

The new owners, the Dubai-based Paris Group, have reiterated their commitment to maintain the fashion house’s base in Milan _ even though the headquarters and the show theater no longer belong to the label but to Ferre’s brother.