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“The foundation of the house is a reaction to restrictions,” said Simons. “I wanted to do that too.”

Do it, he did _ not forgetting to have fun on the way.

Cheekily, Simons turned it and other jackets into mini dresses _ twinned with black uber-short shorts. Other looks had a dash of Simons’ own signature architecture.

Simons’ has been swatting up.

Where Christian Dior loved garden flowers _ here, Raf Simons delved even further into the bushes, bringing back in his jam-jar six sumptuous insect-inspired looks in silk and tulle.

One pink and blue loose A-line used tulle and embroidery to create the translucent veins of an insect wing.

It was details like this that made this collection fly so freely and so high.

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ISSEY MIYAKE

Issey Miyake’s collection was born, so say the program notes, of “vibrantly colored images of birds alighting…and flapping their wings.”

Weaving in the house’s signature high-tech fabric on sheer and tulle jersey, the result: A color-blocked phoenix of a show.

Hues _ and also models, who walked in criss-cross formation _ converged and flowed. In the process, it added a much-welcome splash of fun to the Paris Fashion Week calendar.

Black graphic stripes blurred in the loose and pleat-rich silhouettes, in lime yellow, cobalt, sky blue and orange, only serving to add to these visual illusions.

Then came the science: The Miyake fabric-lab showing that it’s been as busy as ever.

This season they served up what the house calls “revolutionary” double-sided printing. Revolutionary it wasn’t, but images on the front and back blurred together to produce a nice graphic play.

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