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“The foundation of the house is a reaction to restrictions,” said Simons. “I wanted to do that too.”

Do it, he did _ not forgetting to have fun on the way.

Cheekily, Simons turned it and other jackets into mini dresses _ twinned with black uber-short shorts. Other looks had a dash of Simons’ own signature architecture.

Simons’ has been swatting up.

Where Christian Dior loved garden flowers _ here, Raf Simons delved even further into the bushes, bringing back in his jam-jar six sumptuous insect-inspired looks in silk and tulle.

One pink and blue loose A-line used tulle and embroidery to create the translucent veins of an insect wing.

It was details like this that made this collection fly so freely and so high.



Issey Miyake’s collection was born, so say the program notes, of “vibrantly colored images of birds alighting…and flapping their wings.”

Weaving in the house’s signature high-tech fabric on sheer and tulle jersey, the result: A color-blocked phoenix of a show.

Hues _ and also models, who walked in criss-cross formation _ converged and flowed. In the process, it added a much-welcome splash of fun to the Paris Fashion Week calendar.

Black graphic stripes blurred in the loose and pleat-rich silhouettes, in lime yellow, cobalt, sky blue and orange, only serving to add to these visual illusions.

Then came the science: The Miyake fabric-lab showing that it’s been as busy as ever.

This season they served up what the house calls “revolutionary” double-sided printing. Revolutionary it wasn’t, but images on the front and back blurred together to produce a nice graphic play.

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