- Associated Press - Sunday, September 30, 2012

PARIS (AP) - True style doesn’t try too hard.

That was the statement at Paris Fashion Week, alarmingly simple, but proved in a number of ready-to-wear presentations Sunday which heralded a move towards clean, simplified elegance.

Celine designer Phoebe Philo _ at the top of her game _ produced a chic display, effortlessly.

Three years after the lauded Briton’s Celine debut, she delivered a strong show, which evoked her boho-bourgeois style in soft silhouettes with subtle architecture.


Another of Paris’ influential designers, Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy, presented a new vision of style Sunday.

Again, Tisci channeled a clean look, simplifying the house silhouette in a less elaborate yet sophisticated collection.

Hermes _ the house of the jet-setting fashion buyer _ served up the elegance in its usual cocktail of travel, silk, leather and exotic cultural references.

Summing up his show, the house’s designer Christophe Lemaire said it represented “a clean, sharp, modernist traveler.”

Monday’s highly anticipated shows include Stella McCartney, Chloe _ and the hottest ticket of the week _ Hedi Slimane’s debut outing as designer for the rebranded Saint Laurent.

___

CELINE

Spring is about gentle contradictions, not color, Phoebe Philo seemed to say: Shown through a muted palette of black, white, navy and gray.

The real point of the show was the gentle play on contrasting lines, then textures, then form.

Loosely hanging silhouettes _ often with attention to neck details in high necks, bands and twists _ came in column or boxy shapes, with a couple of black A-line tuxedo-dresses for good measure.

The gloss of sheeny silks whispered a contrast against matte fabric.

Story Continues →