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Philo has often been noted for her chic “utilitarian tailoring,” which she delivers with uncanny ease.

Here we saw it used artistically in hemline frays which turned into tassels, and twisted fabric that wrapped round the back sewn crudely together in a lump.

It’s a style that wouldn’t look out of place on Juliette Binoche, for example, who accepted a best-actress award at Cannes in 2010 in custom Celine.

The house is right in fancying themselves as Paris calendar’s arty side.

When fashion insiders asked to see the mandatory program notes, there were wry smiles as they were handed a text-free book of collage pictures.

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GIVENCHY

Trend-setting designer Riccardo Tisci changed the direction of Givenchy’s ready-to-wear Sunday.

He simplified the silhouette to a more flattened and spread out front-and-shoulder emphasis in 37 black, white and gray looks.

A strong voice in the fashion conversation, Tisci’s tailoring influences designers far and wide.

Last spring, for instance, he brought back the peplum.

Now, hardly a collection goes by without one cropping up.

The wilder bondage-gear touches that added spice to last season’s equestrian-inspired trip, were gone here, in a less elaborate display _ but which had its moments of clean elegance.

A great feature was the clean, descending ripples in many of the looks which are sure to spread into other collections like wildfire.

But for a designer who likes to live dangerously, this more saleable collection_ though a departure from last season _ felt at times like he was playing-it-safe.

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