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“I felt like it was time for leaner shapes, a little fierce,” designer Gilles Mendel said backstage. “She’s still feminine, but she’s not an angry woman.”

Who could be when her closet is full of a quilted mink motorcycle jacket with a clever detachable bottom (two coats in one!) or a pearl-colored mink turtleneck sweater that she can wear with a slim tailored pant?

“I’m just a big fan. … I really sort of respond to the ladylike, feminine sort of clothing,” said front-row guest Katherine Heigl, who has worn his dresses on the red carpet.


The runway show staged by Ken Kaufman and Isaac Franco was sheer Hollywood. And we do mean sheer.

The sexiest looks for sure were the beaded gowns that had skillful and strategic cutouts, to places that would normally defy gravity, that were then filled in with powder-colored tulle.

Even in the daytime, their muse has an edge, though it seems she likes her luxury, too. What better for her than a shearling vest over a tech-fabric raincoat, or a fox-trimmed peacoat?


Was it you who inspired Narciso Rodriguez?

He saw two women _ not dressed particularly fancy or fashion forward _ who crossed each other on the street one day at just the right moment of a winter solstice.

The women-on-the-street influence was seen mostly in the orange-tinged outfits, such as a tangerine-colored fleece jacket paired with cognac-colored crepe skinny pants and a high-neck tangerine sheath dress.

But, said Rodriguez, he also drew a lot of inspiration from the Brazilian artist Lygia Clark, having recently visited a Sao Paulo exhibit dedicated in her honor. That’s where the graphic black and white _ among his favorite colors to work with _ came in.

The overarching vibe of the clothes was clean and modern, but not restrictive.


Many designers have very specific themes or inspirations for their collections _ a painting, an ancient scroll, a mountain _ but Reed Krakoff finds all that a bit contrived. For him, it’s a matter of a mood, or several moods, that he tries to explore.

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