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Krakoff’s “moods” were, he said, “utilitarian and functional, combined with fluidity, combined with sensuality.”

The utilitarian part came via tailored coats and jackets, in colors of classic navy, charcoal and military green.

The feminine and sensual elements came in flowing skirts, an occasional silky dress _ like a black-and-ivory “liquid satin” frock _ or blouses that looked functional in front but were sheer, filmy and delicate at the back.

RACHEL ZOE

Zoe went a little more tailored _ and a little tougher _ for the new season, shaking off some of her bohemian rock-star girlfriend.

But she did lend a nod to “rock `n’ roll underground London.” She clearly likes music and the 1970s style, too, but she said in her notes she also found inspiration in “the equestrian lifestyle.”

That translated into lovely shades of caramel chocolate brown and dark green, especially rich in leather. A pair of pleated leather pants was paired with a cozy fisherman sweater.

For dressing up, the stylist-designer-reality TV star offered a white beaded cocktail dress, and a black jersey maxi dress with a keyhole opening on both the front and back. A sweatshirt-shaped gray sweater with embellished sleeves looked sharp with wide-legged gray flannel pants.

J. CREW

Most people know J. Crew, and many can afford to buy the clothes. The company’s presence shows how New York Fashion Week has become a bit more democratic.

Insiders might place a few advance orders for key pieces, such as the rose-gold camp shirt, metallic floral polo shirt and sweatshirt-style cashmere sweaters and skinny pants that featured silver brocade on a purple background.

Most people in the crowd probably rarely visit a mall or even Main Street, but they were buzzing about the J. Crew outfits.

The luxury of working for J. Crew, said womenswear designer Tom Mora, is that there’s room to offer new inspiring pieces that mix with the classics the brand is built on.

BELSTAFF

Cool and wearable aren’t always complementary, especially in the fickle fashion world. Somehow, though, Belstaff, which attracted the hipster crowd, bridged that gap.

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