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“My wife likes it all. She likes the colors, the prints, the textures. She likes to see a melange,” he said.

RICHARD CHAI

Chai put on a little edge, but he kept his collection neat and trim.

He is among a few designers to include men and women on the same runway. Though they walked one by one, the crowd surely could envision couples: She in a metallic, military jacket and pencil skirt, he in a plaid suit.

Chai used emerald and the dustier, more botanical Linden greens that Pantone Inc., which provides color services to most of the fashion industry, put on its Top 10 list of the season.

The designer featured a lovely shade of light purple _ a little unusual for fall _ on a textured jacquard with a lacelike effect for a pencil skirt and matching peplum top. A man-tailored shirt underneath added a modernity and utility that Chai is developing as signatures.

Christina Ricci watched in an embellished blue top by Chai paired with black pants.

“I have some of his clothes in my closet,” she said. “I’m kind of a uniform girl. I wear jeans and tank tops a lot.”

TADASHI SHOJI

Shoji‘js frosty muse was dressed in high-neck washed keyhole gowns decorated in lace, then made a quick change into a white neoprene capelet with navy metallic lace and a flouncy white-and-navy gown underneath.

A red tulle-and-lace gown with black beaded cutouts also seemed special.

Fabrics were heavy and embellishments rich.

Some of the looks seemed a little costumey, but the opulence worked for the black-tie show-stoppers and an ivory gown with a pearl-encrusted bodice that would be an out-of-the-box _ and fabulous _ choice for a super-luxe winter wedding.

CREATURES OF THE WIND

Just last season, Chris Peters and Shane Gabier were focusing on intricate couture techniques.

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