Their more masculine looks for fall also included a broad double-lapel jacket in black kidskin, ivory vinyl and olive wool worn over a black cotton and ivory vinyl shirt and a houndstooth plaid trouser in black and yellow.
A coat of navy and black wool and black vinyl was paired with a navy wool twill trouser.
A more feminine and pretty look came in a dress with a black kidskin top and a jacquard bottom in “broken geometry” of bright blue, green and olive.
The two designers have risen fast in the fashion world. Vogue editor Anna Wintour sat across the room from model-actress Dree Hemingway, Mariel’s daughter and the great-granddaughter of Ernest Hemingway.
Gabier and Peters say one of their chief inspirations this season was the Memphis movement, an Italian design collaborative from the 1980s that specialized in colorful furniture, fabrics and other objects.
An opening video beamed on multiple walls in a vast Chelsea basement acknowledged that much has changed in the world since Cole last showed during Fashion Week _ and how important social media is to the industry.
These days, it’s more important that the audience “like” something rather than love it, Cole said.
Chances of both are pretty good. His collection, dubbed “Urban Liberation,” offered a lot of mixed textures, from perforated leather to cozy knits (and a few futuristic metallic touches thrown in, in a classic autumnal palette of bottle green, burgundy, black and gray.
The prints were mostly cityscapes, one printed on the back yoke of a tunic top that was a pleasant surprise when the model rounded the corner of the catwalk.
Jocelyn Noveck in New York contributed to this report.
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