The clothes were full of strength, with exaggerated shoulders and some military touches, but chiffon pleats floated down the runway. Two outfits were long _ as in floor-length _ pleated, peplum tops over tuxedo pants, the perfect yin and yang.
Red that offset the mostly black-and-white combinations was the va-va-voom. Use of the color both here and on Michelle Obama’s inaugural gown last month was not a coincidence. Wu started on the collection in October and the gown _ for which he received plenty of congratulations and accolades _ was designed in November.
“Certainly red was on my mind. … I felt it was right for right now,” he said.
RAG & BONE
Outside, there was sleet, snow and slush. But inside at the Rag & Bone show, one could find at least a temporary solution to the winter storm: Hot mulled wine to ease the chill, and some fun, colorful clothes.
Designers Marcus Wainwright and David Neville were interested in pops of bright color _ like mineral green and grape _ and in a more overtly masculine style. “We referenced men’s silhouettes a lot more than usual this time,” Wainwright said.
On the other hand, the collection was full of flirty quilted miniskirts, too, giving it a feminine accent along with the structured jackets and coats. A grape-colored crochet mini was a typically fun look, as was an orange bomber skirt paired with a long coat, also in grape.
There were lots of soft sweaters, too, like a charcoal “funnel sweater” paired with a crochet skirt of the same color. A charcoal sweater-coat looked deliciously big and warm _ one envied the model who got to wear it on such a cold evening.
Kors, acting as a guest panelist, Posen, Heidi Klum and Nina Garcia were one big happy family when they took their seats to watch the collections of this season’s contestants. (Kors and Klum joked they’ve spent so much time together over the years that they now look like brother and sister.)
Chiming in, Posen added: “I had 10 seasons to watch Michael, and I had been a guest judge with him. I’m sure I learned a few things.”
The show is the godmother of fashion reality TV, now in its 11th season. It was time for a change, said Klum, who is an executive producer.
The other new wrinkle this go-around is that the contestants have been working in teams _ and they are not necessarily happy about it, Klum said.