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Givenchy, Kenzo, Chloe get tough, Celine delights
Question of the Day
Rounded shoulders and funky boxy (or oval) shapes ensured that Humberto Leon and his creative partner Carol Lim lived up to their cool-kid reputation _ while temple guard sleeves and wrap fastenings added a ferocity.
But, above all, the opulent fabrics _ like gold silk jacquard and rich printed lame _ made this surely the most elegant collection seen since they joined the design helm in July 2011. The show was also about the texture. Tectonic serpent skin style, which Leon said evoked the temples’ bricks and serpent motif, looked great on boxy jackets or flat tulip skirts.
Texture was also evoked in busy patterns with myriad eyes.
After last season’s slouchy-chic, Celine’s Phoebe Philo upped the elegance to deliver a beautiful play of lines, but one that lost none of her soft touch.
For those with a penchant for loose, structured geometry the show had plenty to offer: wide horizontal bands of fabric, streamlined plunging lapels and triangular wide sleeves.
Relaxed was the word _ like a series of clever, knee length sleeveless dresses, with belt-like faux sleeves wrapped around the torso. The arms were folded in dishabille resignation, as if to say: I know I’m stylish, but I don’t need to prove it.
Philo has a quick eye for trends that are always handled in her own distinct way. This season’s fashion for blown-up checks, for instance, came as the multicolored canvass on beach mats. The collection shows the influential London designer at the top of her game.
Chloe makes ready-to-wear that’s ready to wear and doesn’t pretend otherwise.
This honest attitude was on full display in Clare Waight Keller’s collection of 41 highly wearable looks.
If the ensembles seemed disparate, it’s because a cohesive “concept” is perhaps not needed when much is said in the quality of each individual, saleable garment.
There were some neat ideas in blue and neutral black, white and gray. A multicolored thick-striped silk dress had a geeky, graphic look. Elsewhere, a gray jumpsuit played on the shape of overalls with long straps and deep-scooped collars.
There were rings in the model’s ears, shiny zippers and buttons _ what the designer called “hardware elements.” But then _ to end the show _ two diaphanous skirts, in billowing black and white tulle, looked anything but hard.
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