Milan designers trumpet workmanship

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MILAN (AP) - Italian fashion trumpeted its roots during the third day of Milan Fashion Week on Monday.

Milan designers emphasized what they do best, showing off tailored silhouettes, highlighting advanced textiles that elevate the looks and putting the spotlight on the artisanal work behind their exclusive wears.

Etro, the Milan-based fashion house famed for its paisley prints, went one step further, parading out the men and women who create their garments at a factory in the southern region of Apulia to the strains of local folk music.

The focus on Made in Italy provides an antidote to recent moves by foreign conglomerates to snatch up some of Italy’s prized family-run companies, many in the throes of generational change and seeking to secure their futures.

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GUCCI

Gucci’s mod mariner cuts a boxy figure in loose-fitting short jackets and generous sweatshirts paired with slim trousers and solidly soled shoes. The peacoat that anchors the collection sports a rich, knotty texture achieved by working a traditional Tuscan fabric with neoprene.

Creative director Frida Giannini’s palate of dusty pastels creates a mood of a just-calmed storm and lends smoky contrast to the perfect black that permeates the collection.

Ready to set sail, the Gucci mariner tucks an oversized duffel or folded shopper with bamboo handles under his arm, dons his seafarer’s cap, in cloth or leather with a smart leather braid around the crown, and sets off, without squinting, into the sunrise behind his round Gucci sunglass frames.

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FENDI

Fur and fancy were the stars of Fendi’s looks for next season.

Silvia Venturini Fendi clad the runway in swirls of sumptuous gray fur, a tell-tale sign of both the luxury and the fantasy employed in the very tactile collection. Fendi’s heritage is in fur, and Venturini Fendi knows how to treat it both with gravity it deserves while unmasking its hidden humor.

Fur panels added richness to cable-knit sweaters, while generous swaths are draped, almost like external vests or ample shawls, on overcoats. Shaggy fur covers what appears to be an adapted golf cap, complete with pom-pom.

Again, pants were slim-fitting, ending neatly at ankle-high boots or tie-ups with massive silver soles, all the better for grabbing the icy pavement.

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