- Associated Press - Wednesday, May 21, 2014

BANGKOK (AP) - The question to Thailand’s army chief was a basic one: After he declared martial law this week, would he be consulting the government? His response encapsulated the increasingly surreal nature of this Southeast Asian country’s political crisis.

“Where is the government right now? Where are they now? I don’t know,” Gen. Prayuth Chan-ocha snapped before adding awkwardly: “I’m not interfering with the government, or anybody.”

But where, actually, is the elected leadership of Thailand? Few people here believe it is still running the country.

Six months of protests have forced its severely weakened Cabinet to shift offices constantly to avoid being harassed by demonstrators. By the time the army intervened Tuesday, a government that had been in firm power in November found itself caught off guard, its leaders meeting at an undisclosed location that one aide described as “a safe house.”

As Thailand tries to make sense of a move that the army denies was a coup, one thing, at least, is certain: The nation’s caretaker government has been rendered virtually powerless even as the rest of the country largely functions normally.

Thailand is like a car driving on cruise control right now,” said Sunai Phasuk, a senior researcher for Human Rights Watch in Bangkok. “But nobody is at the wheel, and it’s probably going to crash.”

Yet the crash, if it is coming, is happening in slow motion.

Glass-encased shopping malls and ornate temples are open as always. Bangkok’s red-light districts still throb with activity. Civil servants still dutifully review passport applications and oversee driver’s license exams. And for almost all of the country, no military is in sight.

On Wednesday, Prayuth assumed the role of mediator by summoning the country’s key political rivals for face-to-face talks. The meeting ended without resolution, underscoring the immense challenges the army will face in trying to broker an end to the conflict, and more talks are due Thursday.

Thailand has been plagued by major bouts of political turmoil since 2006, when the army toppled Prime Minister Thaksin Shinawatra, unleashing a deeper societal schism that continues to this day.

On one side: the members of Thailand’s conservative establishment, who along with staunch royalists and the largely urban upper and middle classes see Thaksin’s family as a corrupt threat to traditional structures of power.

On the other: a poorer rural majority in the north and northeast that was politically awakened by Thaksin’s populist policies, which brought them everything from electricity to nearly free health-care for the first time.

When Thaksin’s sister, Yingluck Shinawatra, was named prime minister after the ruling Pheu Thai party won a 2011 ballot in a landslide, she managed a fragile detente with the military.

And for a time, her government appeared to be firmly in charge.

In November, the ruling party made a disastrous attempt to ram a controversial amnesty bill through Parliament that would have allowed Thaksin to return from self-imposed exile from Dubai, where he lives to avoid a corruption conviction he says was politically motivated.

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