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"To understand Afghanistan you have to go to the places the majority of the poor go to," Haji Sher said. "The bazaar is Afghanistan." In one of the shops, only miles from the ISAF headquarters of Gen. David McKiernan, a middle-aged man was selling hundreds of AK-47s. "You can buy almost anything on the street," Haji Sher said laughing, as the proprietor pulled an old Kalashnikov off the shelf and handed it to him.