- The Washington Times - Thursday, June 6, 2002

Cold War nostalgia is a fact of life in post-September 11 Washington, so why not get a kick out of a time when the enemy was all too visible? Here's a guide to bus and walking tours:
The SpyDrive, sponsored by the Centre for Counterintelligence and Security Studies, runs bus tours that leave from downtown Washington at 9:15 a.m., last about 2 hours and cost $55. The next two SpyDrives are scheduled for June 8 and July 13. For tickets, call TicketMaster at 800/551-7328. For information, see www.spydrive.com.
'Spies of Washington' tours , sponsored by the Cold War Museum, are led by Carol Bessette, a retired Air Force intelligence officer and Vietnam War veteran. They start at 9 a.m. in a parking lot near the Pentagon and break at noon for lunch at Union Station. After lunch the tour visits more locations and returns to the Pentagon at 3:30 p.m. The next two tours are scheduled for June 22 and Aug. 31. Tickets cost $45. Reserve them through the Cold War Museum at 703/273-2381, or see the Web site at www.coldwar.org.
Walking spy tours of Georgetown and the White House area, also sponsored by the Cold War Museum, are led by Mrs. Bessette. For information see www.coldwar.org or call Mrs. Bessette at 703/569-1875.

If you prefer the self-guided walk, you can stroll among these Cold War hot spots:
Au Pied de Cochon , 1335 Wisconsin Ave. NW. 202/337-6400. The Georgetown restaurant where KGB spy Vitaly Yurchenko walked away from his CIA handlers in 1985 displays a plaque that commemorates the incident. Employees can probably point out where Yurchenko sat.
Chadwick's Restaurant , 3205 K St. NW. 202/333-2565. In 1985, on the heels of Navy turncoat John Walker's arrest, CIA officer and Russian spy Aldrich Ames met here with KGB officers and handed over the names of 20 agents working for the United States in the Soviet Union. Ten were eventually executed.
Dumbarton Oaks , 1703 32 St. NW. 202/339-6401. This beautiful 19th-century mansion and gardens, known for its library and research facility, was a meeting place for Jonathan Pollard, a U.S. Navy analyst and spy for the Israelis, and his handlers in the 1980s. Pollard was arrested by the FBI in 1985 outside the Israeli embassy in Cleveland Park.
The Hiss house , 2905 P St. NW. Alger Hiss, a former State Department official, was convicted of perjury in 1950 for his dealings with Whittaker Chambers, who accused him of being a Soviet spy.
Martin's Tavern , 1264 Wisconsin Ave. NW. 202/333-7370. This was a favored meeting place for Elizabeth Bentley, a former American Communist who broke with the party in the 1940s and revealed Soviet spy rings inside the U.S. government to Congress in 1948. Her testimony helped spark the "Red Scare" of the 1940s and '50s.
The Mayflower Hotel , 127 Connecticut Ave. NW. 202/347-3000. Here Ames received his first payment from the KGB, for $50,000.
R Street, Georgetown . Here, at 2920, is the former home of "Wild Bill" Donovan, director of the Office of Strategic Services, which later became the Central Intelligence Agency. Also on R Street is the house of Duncan Lee, an OSS officer who spied for the Soviets and was a descendant of Robert E. Lee. At the corner of 37th and R is the famous blue mailbox that Ames used to communicate with his Russian contacts. Ames would draw a chalk mark on the mailbox whenever he had top-secret documents to pass on at an agreed-upon "dead drop" location.
Mark Stewart

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