- The Washington Times - Thursday, September 19, 2002

Looking for some serious meat? Lewnes Steak House in Annapolis will fill your hunger.
Having heard tales of the great food and service at Lewnes, my party of four finally decided to give it a try.
It's situated in the Eastport section of the city near Spa Creek on a street now referred to as Restaurant Row.
The main dining area is on the second floor. The atmosphere befits a steakhouse cozy booths highlighting black leather seats, cream-colored walls, dark green carpeting, crisp white tablecloths. The setting invites conversation or even celebration.
We had been warned by friends about the generous servings. Everything is a la carte, but the huge salads and sides serve two or more. Half portions are available.
After poring over the menu, we bypassed the appetizers and salads (there's a lump crabmeat cocktail and a huge Greek salad that looked wonderful) and headed straight for entrees and sides.
I decided to go for the New York strip sirloin ($25.95). Many would find it hard to justify paying nearly $30 for a piece of beef. How good can it really be? Well, it was melt-in-your-mouth good.
I cook a mean steak on the Weber, but this choice cut of U.S. prime aged beef blew away the run-of-the-mill grocery store varieties that I'm usually chewing on at home. The steak was ordered medium and was brought to the table prepared perfectly and it was huge (18 ounces). It was broiled in butter at 1,800 degrees, which seared in the flavorful juices while browning the outside.
Chef Lester Snowden serves all steaks cooked in butter. If requested, they will hold the butter, or add more.
Other extravagant meat offerings include filet mignon, porterhouse (they have one that weighs in at a whopping 48 ounces), prime rib and rib-eye.
Also available are veal chops, lamb chops, grilled double breast of chicken, jumbo lump crab cakes, yellowfin tuna, Atlantic salmon and Garides Scorthloemono (large shrimp prepared Aegean-style in olive oil, lemon and garlic sauce).
If you're not in the mood for meat, the other can't-miss item at Lewnes is the jumbo Maine lobster (market price) that never weighs less than three pounds.
My wife ordered a 3-pounder. The lobster comes ready for eating even the claws are cracked and cleaned in front of you. No lobster bibs necessary.
The elegant manner of serving this crustacean foreshadowed its succulent flavor. It was rich and moist, steamed to perfection, and a decadent treat.
As accompaniments, we ordered lyonnaise potatoes (half portion $2.25), sauteed asparagus ($4.95) and a baked potato ($2.95), all of which were served family style.
It's hard to imagine eating dessert after such a hearty meal, but a sweet tooth needs satisfaction, too. Lewnes offers apple, pecan and Key lime pies; cheesecake; chocolate mousse; and strawberry shortcake.
My wife tried the shortcake. When it was delivered to the table, it looked like a large bowl of berries with whipped cream. The berries were sweet and wonderful, even though it certainly isn't berry season. They obviously were touched up with some tasty additions.
The surprise came further into the dish. The "shortcake" was not a shortcake at all, but a warm, gingery minicake buried in the middle. Its flavor was subtle but well matched with the berries and cream. Hopefully the fruit balanced out all the butter we had consumed earlier in the meal.
And we can't forget the wines. By the glass or by the bottle, the list is extensive and sure to please any connoisseur of fine reds and whites from around the world.
Since 1921, there has been a Lewnes family member in the restaurant business at this same street corner.
After a major renovation of the building, the current incarnation opened in August 1995 under the management of Erik Peterson, a graduate of Baltimore International Culinary College.

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