- The Washington Times - Tuesday, December 23, 2003

Gaia, Notios White, Peloponnesus, 2002, $12

If you’re one of those people who like truly dry white wines, here’s an exciting new one to try. From Greece’s Peloponnesus peninsula, it tastes bracingly bright and crisp, with surprisingly subtle, nuanced flavors.

Although Greece has been producing wines forthousands of years, the country long has lagged behind much of the rest of Europe in terms of quality and reputation. Today, thanks largely to the work of small, independent vintners, the quality has gone way up. Renown is sure to follow.

The Gaia winery specializes in wines made from indigenous Greek grapes, particularly those grown in the rugged terrain of Peloponnesus. This particular wine is a blend of two such grapes — moshofilero, which provides fruit and perfume, and roditis, which provides acidity. The result is a young wine that tastes deliciously refreshing.

Match this light-bodied white with equally light, fresh fare. Vegetarian dishes would work well, as would lightly fried fish and all sorts of shellfish. Oysters, anyone? (Athenee Imports)

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