- The Washington Times - Friday, June 20, 2003

Here are three recommendations for visitors to Rome, two restaurants and one art gallery:

• The Piperno restaurant in the heart of Rome’s Jewish ghetto began as a stable about 150 years ago. I liked the main course I ordered, but an American woman living in Rome ordered the lamb sweetbreads with artichokes. She let me have a taste, and I knew that should have been my order, too. Piperno is known for its fried specialities such as fritti misti and the Roman Jewish artichoke dish called carciofi alla giudia.

The address — about two blocks from the Tiber River — is Monte de’ Cenci, 9; phone 39-06-68-80-66-29 or 39-06-68-80-27-72; on the Internet, [email protected] Piperno is closed Sunday evening and Monday.

• For seafood, the Quinzi & Gabrieli restaurant, Via delle Coppelle, 5, is excellent. We enjoyed a huge platter of raw fish, squid and crustaceans and then — again on a huge platter in the center of the table — a repeat of the same harvest of the sea, but this time cooked. In operation since 1981, Quinzi & Gabrieli seats only about 65 diners.

A stroll from the restaurant to the nearby Piazza Navona and Pantheon is in order after a meal. Hours are noon to 3 p.m. and 7 to 11 p.m.; it’s closed Sundays and all of August; phone 39-06-68-79-389; [email protected]

• The Galleria Borghese — in the Villa Borghese, the name of the park and villa — reopened about a year ago after major renovation and cleaning of its magnificent collection of paintings and sculptures.

Once painted in that ocher so typical in Mediterranean countries, the villa is resplendent in white, a jewel in its setting in the park. On the Internet: www.galleriaborghese.it/info-en.htm.

Richard Slusser

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