- The Washington Times - Monday, November 24, 2003

Seghesio, Zinfandel, Sonoma County, 2001, $17

Still looking for a wine for tomorrow’s feast? Try zinfandel, an all-American choice for this most all-American meal. Like most Americans, zin is an immigrant. It came to these shores sometime before the Civil War, probably from Italy, though its original home appears to have been the Balkans. And as with many immigrants, it soon became assimilated into a new culture, adapting and even thriving in sunny California.

Zinfandel has had its ups and downs over the years, going in and out of fashion as a red varietal. Today, it is trendy, and the top wines are made with meticulous care.

When choosing a zin to accompany Thanksgiving dinner, look for one that evidences some restraint, its ripe berry fruit being held in check by a firm but not astringent structure. Many of the best wines in this style come from Sonoma County, particularly the Dry Creek region, where Seghesio Vineyards is one of the leading producers.

Edoardo Seghesio, another immigrant, planted his first vines back in 1895. His grandchildren run the business today, and they make particularly graceful zins. That’s reason enough to raise a glass in thanks.

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