- The Washington Times - Tuesday, March 30, 2004

Domaine Le Peu de la Moriette, Vouvray, 2002, $12

Spring is here. And no white wine tastes more like the season — seductively warm and sweet, with a crisp, fresh breeze blowing through — than Vouvray from Touraine in France’s Loire Valley. A good example makes for perfect sipping out on the deck or patio, as each day grows a little longer and the chill of winter begins to fade into memory.

Vouvray is made from chenin blanc, one of the world’s great but often neglected white wine grapes. Chenin can yield luscious, honeyed dessert wines, but renditions such as this one are only barely off-dry, their steely backbone of acidity balancing their ripe apple and peach flavors. The hint of sweetness makes them delicious as aperitifs, while the firmness ensures that they can complement many a dinner dish.

A medium-weight wine, Domaine Le Peu de la Moriette Vouvray will pair well with poultry or pork dishes, particularly any with butter- or cream-based sauces. It offers a beguiling illusion of richness — hints of warmth and richness within a cool, steely structure. Much like spring itself, this wine will have you eager for more after just a taste. (Imported by Vineyard Brands.)

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