- The Washington Times - Tuesday, May 18, 2004

Peter Lehmann, Semillon, Barossa Valley, 2002, $12

Dry semillon is one of the world’s best fish wines. Crisp, clean and full of citrus and tropical-flavored fruit

flavors, it has a seductive creamy, almost waxy texture that marries wonderfully with seafood — ocean fish such as halibut or salmon as well as full-flavored shellfish.

The best dry semillons come from either Bordeaux (where the grape customarily is blended with sauvignon blanc) or Australia.

They come in two styles — wines designed for aging and wines made to be drunk young. Peter Lehmann’s semillon from South Australia’s Barossa Valley falls in the latter camp. Youthfully bright and fresh, it offers enticing near-term excitement.

This wine displays vibrant fruit flavors, set against a custardy, vanilla-tinged backdrop.

Fairly deep, it can stand up to full-flavored foods but at the same time has sufficient finesse not to overpower more delicate dishes. It should provide delicious drinking all summer long.

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