- The Washington Times - Tuesday, September 14, 2004

Hermanos Lurton, Rueda, 2003, $12

This lively white wine from Spain is full of personality and charm. It hails from Rueda, one of that country’s top white wine regions, and is made in a clean, modern style with a blend of two old-fashioned local grapes, verdejo and viura. This wine seems simultaneously innovative and traditional, the best of both worlds.

Jacques and Francois Lurton came to Rueda from Bordeaux, bringing with them up-to-date winemaking technology and expertise. They destem the grapes for this wine before pressing, then cold-settle the juice before fermenting it in temperature-controlled stainless-steel tanks.

These techniques prevent the wine from tasting harsh, heavy or oxidized, faults that plague far too many Spanish whites. At the same time, because the wine is made with traditional grape varieties, it tastes distinctive rather than derivative. Its floral bouquet is beguiling, and its peach, apricot and spiced-pear flavors seem deliciously individualistic.

Bright and fresh, this would be a great wine to serve guests before dinner as an aperitif. Medium-bodied, it also has sufficient depth of flavor to accompany a wide array of seafood.

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