- The Washington Times - Tuesday, September 7, 2004

Georges DuBoeuf, Fleurie, 2003, $14

Georges DuBoeuf is the master of Beaujolais, and his 2003 wines are veritable masterpieces — rich, ripe, bursting with succulent red berry fruit, and beautifully balanced.

His Beaujolais-Villages ($10), which was featured in these pages a number of weeks ago, is superb. His wines from the specific village crus of Beaujolais are even better. Of those I have tasted to date, this Fleurie is my favorite, but my guess is that any 2003 DuBoeuf Beaujolais will be worth buying.

Last summer’s record-breaking heat in France made for an ideal Beaujolais vintage, as the grapes reached unprecedented levels of ripeness. Mr. DuBoeuf has always favored a fruit-forward style, and the combination of personal predilection and nature’s bounty has resulted in some of the most sumptuous Beaujolais wines I have ever sampled.

They do not taste like pinot noir wannabes, but rather unabashedly celebrate the unaffected charms of the gamay grape — fresh fruit flavor, with nothing ponderous or pretentious to spoil the fun.

This Fleurie is a red wine to enjoy with roast chicken, turkey or pork, dishes that won’t overpower its vibrant allure. It won’t improve with age, but because it will continue to provide delicious drinking for the next year or so, it is well worth buying by the case.

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