- The Washington Times - Tuesday, December 27, 2005

Gosset, Brut Champagne, “Grand Reserve,” $65

Rich and toasty, with impeccable balance, Gosset’s “Grand Reserve” is about as good a nonvintage champagne as you’re likely to find. It marries elegant finesse with remarkable staying power and clearly outperforms many more famous brands.

Gosset is one of the smaller champagne houses but also one of the oldest, having been founded by Pierre Gosset in 1584. The wines are made traditionally, with the initial fermentation taking place in old oak barrels rather than new steel tanks. They then are riddled and disgorged by hand and aged for five years or so in bottle before release. The result is champagne of uncommon character and style.

“Grand Reserve” is a very dry, full-bodied champagne with multiple layers of aroma and flavor and fantastic length. Delicious as an aperitif or for a celebratory toast, it is even better when paired with food. So, come Saturday, feel free to open it well before midnight, and enjoy it with dinner. (Imported by Palm Bay.)

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