- The Washington Times - Friday, December 30, 2005

MABANK, Texas — A gourmet extravagance — authentic Japanese Kobe beef — will be allowed back into the United States for the first time in four years. The question is whether anyone will care. An American “Kobe-style” brand has taken its place on restaurant menus.

The United States banned Japanese beef after mad cow disease was discovered there in 2001. Officials ended the ban earlier this month, after Japan ended its own embargo on American beef.

In the interim, American producers tried to take up the slack.

“We cannot meet demand,” said Todd Hatoff, president of Allen Brothers, which sells high-end beef to fine restaurants. “I don’t see it going away, ever. It’s not a fad.”

Kobe beef is the essence of fine dining: The meat bursts with flavor, and the fat melts like butter and coats your mouth with velvety richness. The best American Kobe-style steak costs between $80 and $100 at a high-end steakhouse. A Kobe-style hamburger can cost $40.

“It’s very rich, very full-flavored,” said Tom Schneller, assistant professor at the Culinary Institute of America. “This is the cream of the crop.”

Legend has it that Japanese Kobe cattle are fed beer, massaged with sake, even soothed with soft music. Specialists say beer has been used to stimulate their appetites and that sake makes for a glossy coat, on which they are graded.

But that is not how it’s done in America, where ranchers think good genetics and careful feeding are the main ingredients for quality Kobe-style beef.

“It’s a great story, and we don’t go out of our way to dispel the myth, but it’s really not necessary,” said Jay Theiler, president of Idaho-based Snake River Farms.

It starts with the cows. True Kobe beef comes from the region surrounding the city of Kobe, Japan. For centuries, the cattle were used not for meat, but to provide the muscle for rice cultivation. Consumption didn’t really take off until after World War II.

The American version of Kobe beef comes from the same breed of cattle raised in Japan. Called Wagyu, a Japanese name that means “Japanese cattle,” they began arriving in the United States in the 1990s.

They are fattened for much longer than the average American breed — they live about 26 to 32 months, compared with 18 months for U.S. beef cattle. U.S. ranchers often crossbreed them with Angus cattle.

The beef they produce is considered better than prime — the highest grade given by the U.S. Department of Agriculture.

Texas cattleman Gary Yamamoto said at least 97 percent of his Kobe-style Wagyu beef is prime. Nationwide, only about 2 percent of beef earns a prime rating.

While cattlemen can be private about their operations, Mr. Yamamoto chats freely — confiding, for example, that the whole thing began because he was looking for a property-tax break that comes with grazing livestock or planting trees.

“Once I got into it and learned all the aspects — the health as well as the good taste, I was hooked,” he said.

Healthy fatty beef? Absolutely, Mr. Yamamoto said — he helped fund research that backs up his claim. Stephen Smith, a Texas A&M University researcher, concluded that compared with American beef, Wagyu beef is much higher in unsaturated fat. It has high levels of oleic acid, the fatty acid in olive and canola oils that has been shown to lower bad LDL cholesterol.

“The health aspect of this animal is what should be the standard for the U.S. cattle herd,” Mr. Yamamoto said.

Another selling point for Kobe-style beef is that it’s often raised without hormones or antibiotics.

Still, some ranchers think indulgence is the biggest selling point.

“Most Americans live with a cloud. They all know what is right and the way they should live their lives,” said R.L. Freeborn, president of Oregon-based Kobe Beef America. “This is a fine dining experience. Something like a fine steak is really, really a joy to eat.”

However, the Japanese won’t be sampling American Kobe-style beef, because it takes longer to raise than the 21-month age limit Japan has imposed on beef it imports from the United States.

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