- The Washington Times - Tuesday, July 26, 2005

Louis Jadot, Chateau des Jacques, Moulin-a-Vent, 2003, $21

This Moulin-a-Vent from Chateau des Jacques, a historic property owned by the highly regarded Burgundy producer Louis Jadot, is one of the best of the best Beaujolais. Deep and ripe, it almost overflows with opulent perfume and seductive fruit flavor, while retaining subtlety and structure.

Moulin-a-Vent is one of the 10 Beaujolais crus, the sub-appellations known for producing the region’s best wines. In 2003, one of the finest — because it was so hot — Beaujolais vintages on record, wines from the crus excelled, being richer than usual.

All Beaujolais red wines are made with gamay grapes, a variety that usually yields fairly plain quaffing wines. Beaujolais from the crus can be more serious, but even cru wines tend to be straightforward and simple.

Not so with Chateau des Jacques in 2003. This particular wine is remarkably complex and multilayered, even though exuberant and vivacious. While delicious now, I suspect it will be even better after a year or two of calm in the cellar.

Medium-bodied, this is an excellent wine to pair with substantial but not heavy dishes — roast chicken, pork tenderloin, baked ham, and the like. Although expensive when compared with other Beaujolais, it proves so superior to the norm that it actually offers good value. (Imported by Kobrand.)

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